
Kicker Rock
Last week Matt and I were lucky to be on board the Lindblad Expeditions/National Geographic Endeavour for a week-long cruise around the eastern Galapagos Islands. We found out late Thursday that we were approved for the trip and set off early Saturday morning to San Cristobal to meet up with the ship. The 2 1/2 boat ride was rough and despite dramamine and my handy pressure point wristbands, I learned a new meaning for walk of shame – walking off the boat with a puke bag in hand. Thankfully, I had prescription scopolamine patches left behind by some friends and slapped one on as soon as we got on board. We were ready to cruise!
Endeavour
Comfy Cabin
Lounge
A Good Way to Enjoy the Library
We had only been on one cruise before – Alaska’s inside passage on a ginormous ship – and to say it was not my favorite vacation is an understatement. In addition to getting seasick, I did not enjoy the canned feeling of a sedentary voyage that catered to middle America tastes. What a difference this experience was! The fact that it was not a cruise but an “expedition” set the tone. Our schedule was packed with hikes, snorkeling trips, kayak outings and the like and led by naturalists who had a passion for the wildlife and setting. The passengers were primarily adventurous, active folks who were eager to learn about the Galapagos and see as much as possible. That said, we still had ample meals and time to relax. Sunset at the equator is 6 pm, so we were always back on board relatively early, particularly given that the ship doesn’t dock anywhere but instead uses zodiacs (hard bottomed rubber boats) to transport us between the ship and shore (or kayak or snorkeling spot). Getting between the ship and the zodiac is not always an easy feat in choppy waters. On the pier in San Cristobal some of our fellow passengers quickly set up a pool – $20 per person with the pot going to the first person unintentionally to go overboard during the transfer. Never one to pass up a gambling opportunity, we were in. Surprisingly, while there were some close calls, no one went overboard.
Cross-Species Contemplation
Kayak Cleanup
Zodiac Ride
Galapagos Loves the Packers
Under the Sea
First Beach Walk
Alien Landscape
Disembarking
Juan Carlos, Guide Extraordinaire
The magic of the Galapagos is its wildlife. While neither Matt nor I are birders, the birds proved to be fascinating on this trip. The first treat was seeing the waved albatross engaged in their mating dance on Española Island. This is not the normal mating season, and we saw some unusual animal activity on the trip, which our guides attributed to El Niño.
Honk!
Beak Fight!
My Turn!
Pooped from the Mating Dance
Mating Ritual
Waved Albatross
Albatross mate for life and each season lay one egg on open ground. Both partners incubate the egg and caring for it includes rolling it around. We didn’t see that spectacle, though I was hoping.

Hmmm
Flying High
Soaring Albatross
Next up were the Nazca Boobies. These are the largest of the 3 booby species found on the islands. The juveniles spend considerable time practicing to fly before they learn. They also are heavier than the adults (typical teens) and have to slim down before they can get airborn.
Awkward Phase
Who You Looking At?
Beak Aggression
Are you My Mother?
Practice
Take Off
Landing
Taking Flight
Coexistence
No Fear
Nazca Booby
It is a bit hard to tell mating behavior versus fighting, but these two were having a turf war, much to the interest of their neighbors.
Booby Battle
Spectator Sport
Giving Up
Not to be outdone, the Red Footed Boobies are pretty spectacular and should be called the Multicolored Beak – Red Footed Boobies.
Hello, Sunshine!
Red Footed Booby Baby
Boobies at Rest
Beautiful Booby
Glorious Colors
Juvenile Red Footed Booby
Blue Beaked, Red Footed Booby
Red Footed Booby
Juvenile Red Footed Booby
Soaring Booby
Booby and Frigatebird
Soaring Away
Red Feet Tucked in for Flying
Up and Away
Of course, the ubiquitous Blue Footed Boobies were also spotted.
Squawk!
Learning to Fly
Blue Footed Boobies Flanking the Penguins
Booby and Fluff Baby
Blue Footed Boobies
Trifecta – Boobies, Penguins and Sea Lion
We didn’t just bird watch. Matt’s favorite part of any trip is the snorkeling and we went on all 6 of the snorkeling excursions offered.
Sealion
Green & Gold
Starfish aka Sea Stars
Seascape
Unfortunately, on our second outing we got water in the camera. After trying to dry it out for a day we plugged it in to charge the battery and returned to our cabin a couple of hours later to find the cord melted into the camera. We were relieved we didn’t burn down the ship. We especially wished we had the camera for our snorkeling outing to Bartolomé. Often cited as the best of the islands, it did not disappoint. We saw just about every type of fish, coral, and sea creature (with the exception of sea turtles, penguins or sharks) that we have ever seen in the Galapagos and the structure around which we swam was fantastic. In the picture below, we snorkeled from the beach on the right to the end of the point with the peak.

Bartolomé Vista
We had a human-focused excursion to Post Office Bay on the island of Floreana where we continued a mail swapping tradition that dates back at least to 1793. The guides open the mail barrel and read out the addresses on the postcards inside. If one is close to your home, you take the postcard and deliver it in person. We took a few from the Milwaukee area although the recipients will have to wait until next year for their special delivery.
Post Office Bay, Floreana
Mail Drop
Post Office Box
Artifacts
Ximena Collecting the Mail
Mail Call
Special Delivery
Back on the zodiac, a naturalist spotted some penguins so we zipped over to take a closer look.
Hanging as the Sun Sets
Sun Worshippers
Blue Footed Boobies Flanking the Penguins
Other adventures included searching for elusive land iguanas on Cerro Dragon on Santa Cruz (our home island – Matt actually went to school to give the tour for the passengers and I went home and did a load of laundry the first day we were there).
Ta-da!
Hangin’
Parting the Crowd
We saw the cruel side of nature: the kleptoparasitic frigatebirds that steal food from other birds by attacking them and shaking them by the tail and starving sea lion babies whose mothers likely were eaten by sharks.
Bird Attack!
Kleptoparasites
Gimme that Fish!
Magnificent Frigatebird
Sneaky Frigatebird

Heartbreak
We learned to look past natural camouflage.
Camo Trio – Mockingbird, Iguanas and Sally Lightfoot Crabs
Camo Iguana
Camo Mockingbird
Camo Hieroglyphic Hawkfish
And to enjoy the flamboyant.

Flamingo Bay
Sally Lightfoot Crab
Pink Flamingos
There was something great to see every time we looked.
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A trip to remember and a new appreciation for cruises!